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Live music and deconstructed knitwear at Proenza Schouler.

The Surrealist aesthetic of Swiss artist Meret Oppenheim was an inspiration for Proenza Schouler’s latest collection, a series of eclectic silhouettes and flowing designs displayed at a downtown Manhattan art center on Friday afternoon.

Kicking off a New York Fashion Week that will feature live runway shows but still has some top designers sitting it out due to the ongoing pandemic, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez offered their guests live string music, to a composition by the Queens-based musician Eartheater, as they displayed exaggerated forms often focused on the waist, with voluminous garments coming together at the center to wrap or hug the body. The theme, the designers said, was experimentation and play — more important than ever, they said, as people navigate a pandemic that has changed the way everyone lives.

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